Friday, April 23, 2010

Will a skin cream really work to make me look younger?

Can a skin cream really make me look younger?
So... If I spend all this money on skin creams, does it make a difference?

The answer is yes and no.. I have found that the people that respond amazingly well to my anti aging products are those who have let their skin be at the mercy of the environment. Those who worship the sun, who smoke, who haven't used a moisturizer in years... These people respond dramatically to my anti aging creams and a difference is noticable in a matter of days to weeks. For the skin care junkie who uses sunscreen daily, doesn't smoke, gets plenty of sleep, uses a good moisturizer daily, results are more subtle although present.

Skin looks old and wrinkled because of environmental stress, such as sun, oxidants and pollutants, dehydration and just breakdown of collagen over time. What is most likely to respond to a skin cream are the fine lines at the corners of your eyes, the lack of lustre of the skin, age spots, puffiness, dehydration, and lack of overall "youthfull glow". The deeper lines drawn by age such as the ones around the edges of our mouths (frown lines) or deeper lines in our forehead will not respond to a cream, since these are due to collagen breakdown at a deeper level. These do respond best to botox, but beware, since botox will often give an artificial look with lack of expression. Injectable fillers can also help these.

If your skin is dry, dehydrated, lacklustre, with crinkly fine lines you will see a dramatic difference immediately with a good skin cream. Over several weeks a significant long term effect will be present as all the antioxidants and peptides kick in. If you already take great care of your skin in make take several weeks but you will notice a change, since the peptides and anti aging ingredients work over several weeks to renew collagen and improve the skin.

Will getting enough sleep make me look younger?

How does sleep affect the skin?

What can I do to look less tired?

As an emergency physician working night shifts and crazy hours sleep is often a rare commodity. How to keep looking good? Here are some tips I have learned over the years:

Sleep when you can: Every moment makes a difference, whether its a 5 minute nap or 20 minutes here or there, it can make a huge difference!

Avoid salty foods: Believe it or not that puffy eyed look is not from lack of sleep but from excess salt in processed foods, it causes free water to accumulate where you want it least. Drink lots of water and snack healthily on fruits and yes carbohydrates.

Exercise!: Just ten minutes a day of getting your heart rate elevated will do amazing things to your body. So even when your feet are dragging and your eyes are heavy lidded, take the stairs instead of the elevator or go for that quick jog. Exercise is also a HUGE stress reliever.

Undereye Concealer: When all else fails this is my lifesaver. I can come off a night shift, sleep 3 hours and throw a bit of concealer on and complain "Oh I am so tired" and have people comment, "but you don't look tired!" My personal favorite is Cle de Peau in the winter or Laura Mercier secret camaflouge.

How does sleep effect the skin? It has a tremendous effect on skin, skin can look fatigued, saggy and puffy without enough sleep in the long run. It truly is beauty sleep..

What is Rosacea and how do I treat it?

Just what is Rosacea? How is it treated? Is there anything non-prescription that helps?

Rosacea effects many people and is a lifelong chronic problem, causing inflammation and redness in the facial skin. There are several prescription treatments approved by the FDA and other promising treatments that are over the counter. Prescription treatments are sodium sulfacetamide, metronidazole and azelaic acid. Oral isotretinoin (retin-A) is a last resort. Dr Rachel is developing a safe herbal topical cream to treat Rosacea. Some of the ingredients shown to be helpfull are Chrysanthellum indicum, green tea, Niacinamide or vitamin B3, and licorice.

What are "Sun Spots" or Solar lentigo?

Sun exposure not only causes wrinkles but also causes those brown spots on the face and hands. Usually these are seen in older individuals but can be seen in the fairskinned as early as childhood. These are light brown smooth spots.
They can be treated by liquid nitrogen cryotherapy or lasers that target melanin such as the Q-switch ruby laser or intense pulsed broadband light. This is usually available in a dermatologists office. Topical treatments such as Retin A and other lightning agents can be helpfull.
These are just another reason to use sunscreen! They do indicate signs of major sun damage so if you have these its a good idea to get checked out by a dermatologist yearly to look for anything more serious.

Monday, March 15, 2010

What to look for in a skin care product

There are so many anti aging skin care products available it is confusing.
Essentially these products target two things.
1. Sun damage: this causes fine lines, crows feet, age spots, thinning of the skin, dullness.
2. Deeper furrows or lines in the skin. This is actually best treated by more invasive things such as botox but there are some very promising wrinkle relax products (synthetic peptides ) that have been shown to make a difference.
Botox is an invasive expensive procedure which can have unexpected outcomes in some. A safer gentler approach is to use botox alternatives such as argireline and other products. These wrinkle relaxers are neuropeptides which work topically to smooth wrinkles and promote youthfull skin. Snap-8 is the most recently engineered peptide thought to be 30% more active than argireline. These peptides typically need to be in concentrations around 10% in order to produce their wrinkle relaxing and botox-like effects. DMAE is another product thought to reduce sagging of the skin and give the skin an actual "lift" without plastic surgery. Dr Rachel anti aging products contain these botox and surgery alternatives.

So firstly, look for a product that has the anti-oxidants needed to fight sun damage. These include reservatrol, idabenone, matrixyl, alpha lipoic acid, vitamin C, vitamin E, and the list goes on.
Second look for something containing DMAE which has been shown to give an actual "lift " to the skin.
And lastly look for something that contains the new synthetic peptides such as Argeriline and Snap-8. Please be aware these products tend to be expensive.

Whats in a percentage?

Theres a lot of talk about percentage of certain ingredients and their effectiveness. Particularly Argireline, Matrixyl-3000 and Snap-8. Synthetic peptides that treat skin wrinkles.

Argeriline and Snap-8 are generally reccommended to be at a level of 5-10% and higher percentages do not necessarily work better. Matrixyl is reccommended at 3-5%.

Moisturization is key as well. Look for a product with hyaluronic acid for deep moisture. Anti-oxidant containing moisturizers are also usefull, such as Grapeseed Oil.
Please see my website for more usefull skin care information

Dr Rachel

argeriline and snap 8

What are these new skin cream ingredients?
Argeriline and Snap-8 are synthetic peptides.
Botox is an invasive expensive procedure which can have unexpected outcomes in some. A safer gentler approach is to use botox alternatives such as argireline and other products. These wrinkle relaxers are neuropeptides which work topically to smooth wrinkles and promote youthfull skin. Snap-8 is the most recently engineered peptide thought to be 30% more active than argireline. These peptides typically need to be in concentrations around 10% in order to produce their wrinkle relaxing and botox-like effects. DMAE is another product thought to reduce sagging of the skin and give the skin an actual "lift" without plastic surgery. Dr Rachel anti aging products contain these botox and surgery alternatives.
Whats in a percentage?

Theres a lot of talk about percentage of certain ingredients and their effectiveness. Particularly Argireline, Matrixyl-3000 and Snap-8. Synthetic peptides that treat skin wrinkles.

Argeriline and Snap-8 are generally reccommended to be at a level of 5-10% and higher percentages do not necessarily work better. Matrixyl is reccommended at 3-5%.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Prescription anti aging skin care

Prescription Topical Anti Aging Skin Care Products


Prescription anti aging medications include Retinoic acid and tazerotene. These are regulated by the FDA since they can be very harsh to the skin and have the side effects of peeling redness and sun sensitivity. Because of this they should be used in moderation and in conjunction with other emolient and soothing skin care products. They are however very effective in reversing the signs of aging, particulary that related to sun damaged skin.

Popular anti aging skin care ingredients

POPULAR ANTI AGING SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS


Cosmeceuticals


CoQ10:
This is a powerfull anti-oxidant that has been clinically studied in relation to skin. A reduction in wrinkle depth has been shown in studies. The anti-oxidant and free-radical scavenger effects work to combat the signs of aging.


Argireline: (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3)
A new synthesized hexapeptide, theoretically should work to relax muscles in the face and it is a very popular new cosmeceutical. It is thought to stimulate the extracellular matrix similar to vitamin C. In a clinical study, 75% of people observed a decrease of wrinkles. Touted as the new "botox".

Snap-8

A synthesized hexapeptide thought to be 30% more active then Argireline


Alpha-Lipoic Acid
Strongly anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant. 5% cream has been studied and showed decreased skin roughness and improvement of photoaged skin.


Soy:
Soy is rich in isoflavones. Topical soy isoflavones has been shown to increase skin elasticity and decrease the signs of photo-aging.


Copper Peptide
Clinical trials of a topical cream reported improvement in fine lines and wrinkles and increases in skin density and thickness. Has been shown to stimulate fibroblast production of new collagen and aids in dermal remodeling.


Vitamin C
Vitamin C acts as an antioxidant aids in stabilizing collagen. When applied topically, vitamin C can reduce fine lines and wrinkles and may lessen the severity of sunburns.


Vitamin E
When applied topically, vitamin E has been thought to improve moisturization, softness and smoothness and also provide modest photoprotection


Matrixyl: Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline/oligopeptide:
More potent and effective than vitamin C, dipalmitoyl hydroxproline stimulates remodeling and contraction of collagen fibers by promoting interaction between cells and the matrix. It also protects elastic fibers against enzymatic breakdown and actively scavenges free radicals. Thought to also tighten skin. Also called Matrixyl, thought to be the new "Retin A"


Algae Extract:
Extract of Fucus Vesiculosus, type of seaweed 1% showed decrease in skin thickness and improved elasticity. Red microalgae has anti-inflammatory properties. Numerous benefical effects on the skin have been demonstrated.


DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol)
Studies showing anti-inflammatory, documented increase in skin firmness with possible improvement in underlying facial muscle tone.
Analog of B vitamin choline and as a precurser to acetylcholine.
Study with 3% facial gel applied with improvement of forehead lines , periorbital fine wrinkles, improving lip shape and fullness and overall appearance.
Another study showed increased skin firmness.


Hyaluronic Acid:
A very good moisturizer and part of the extracellular matix.


Ursolic Acid
Ursolic Acid incorporated into liposomes increases ceramide and collagen content of cultured normal human dermal fibroblasts. This is a laboratory study and there are no human studies yet, but it looks very promising. This is a component of thyme extract.


Idabenone
Works similar to COQ10, an antioxidant, theoretically may work well to reduce signs of photo-aging. Although it has not been studied, it is used in many new skin care products and thought to be very effective.


Caviar Extract Nourishing ingredients and anti-oxidants are thought to be benificial to the skin and treat signs of aging.


Retinyl Palmitate
Proven anti-wrinkle treatment that has been used for years in skin creams. May be irritating in high doses.





Herbal Ingredients

Date Palm Kernel Extract:
Anti-oxidant. Topical application to eye area showed 27% reduction in total surface of wrinkles and 60% visual improvement. Rich in Phytohormones.

Chrysanthemum indicum is a small yellow flower shown to behelpfull in treating cancer when given orally and rosacea when applies topically. Is antimicrobial, antiinflammatory, immunomodulatory and neuroprotective.

Parsley Extract:
Contains vitamin C, pro Vitamin V and chlorophyll, increases circulation to the skin, antioxidant properties.


Kudzu root extract: (Pueraria lobata)
Antioxidant and contains isoflavones simlar to soy extract, also proven antibacterial. Similar to soy will decrease signs of skin aging due to isoflavones when applied topically.


Rosa Centifolia extract:
Aqueous extract of the cabbage rose, which contains tannins, which have a toning effect on skin, emolient (moisturizing) ingredients, as well as anti-viral and anti-bacterial.


Horse chestnut seed extract aesculus hippocastanium:
Contains aescin reduces inflammation and will increase tone in venous circulation.


Rose Hip Extract: Rosa rubiginosa seed oil
Contains vitamin C and bioflavenoids, an emolient (moisturizer), high in GLA which will reduce the signs of aging


Laminara Digitata Extract:
Brown Algae extract, contains essential amino acids important for skin elasticity, as well as ursolic acid forming a protective barrier for skin.


Eucalyptus leaf oil:
Antiinflammatory, contains tannins for skin toning and flavenoids.


Evening Primrose Oil:
Gamma linolenic acid prostaglandin suppression- reduction in inflammation


Rosemary:
Anti-inflammatory and improves circulation topically.


Grape Seed Oil Extract:
Proanthocyanidin strengthens capillaries, anti-oxidant, Resveratol, anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects

Licorice: The sweet saponin glycyrrhizin occurs in the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra, the original European source, and in Glycyrrhiza uralensis, Chinese licorice. This has been shown to be helpfull topically to treat Rosacea.

Thyme:
Topical anti-inflammatory proven in studies on mice ears. Ursolic and oleanic acid as well as glycosides present.
Another study confirmed this in mice.

Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium)

One of the primary active components of feverfew, parthenolide, inhibits serotonin release from platelets. Feverfew inhibits 5-lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase, resulting in a reduction in human blood platelet aggregation. May be a useful treatment for rosacea.


Sage Extract:
Topical shown to be quite effective anti-inflammatory. (topical sage-rhubarb combination as effective in treating herpes labialis as Zovirax)
Comfrey:
Has Allantion which stimulates reproduction in cells, also anti-inflammatories.
Butcher's Broom (Ruscus Aculeatus) Inhibits elastase, proven beneficial effects in venous insufficiency. No published topical studies on skin yet, but theoretical.
Ginseng Extract
Contains fatty acids, vitamin B, anti-inflammatory components, beneficial to skin cells.
Horsetail Extract
Contains Silicilic Acid, which is stimulating to the skin and also strengthens connective tissue.
Sage Dalmation Extract
Contains anti-microbials such as borneal, antioxidants such as flavenoids and phenolic acids.
Macadamia Nut Oil
R ich in unsaturated fatty acids, vitamin E and A and nourishing to the skin.
Green Tea:
Compounds in Green Tea, called polyphenols eliminate free radicals and rejuvenate and reactivate skin cells.
Lemongrass Oil:
Rich in vitamin C and Anti-oxidants.
Carotseed Oil:
Contains Carotene, Vitamin A, revitalizes and tones the skin and exhibits anti-aging properties.

What is a cosmeceutical?

Cosmeceuticals


The term cosmeceutical was first used by Albert Kligman, the University of Pennsylvania researcher credited with discovering the effectiveness of Retin-A, a vitamin A, in smoothing aging skins. Now this term is used broadly to describe a spectrum of topical ingredients that are potentially benificial to the skin, specifically beneficial in treating skin photo-aging.
Dr Rachel anti aging skin care products incorporate cosmeceuticals in a safe effective way to maximize anti aging effects. Only the safest, gentlest and those that have been proven most effective in anti aging cosmeceuticals are used

winter skin care

For those of us in the colder parts of the country, the harshness of winter is taking its toll. Taking its toll on our skin in many ways!

The biggest problem in the winter is dryness and dehydration. This can make even young skin look tired and parched. The key is to lock the moisture in and protect it from the dehydrating effects of the cold winds as well as the dry heat we are exposed to.

Now if we could alll live and work in an humidified environment that would be ideal. At the very least get a humidifier for your bedroom, it will make all the difference! A cool mist is most sanitary and prefered.

Moisturize moisturize moisturize! Now is the time for heavy duty moisture, humectants such as hyaluronic acid are great. Take the time for a weekly ultra hydrating mask. Be liberal with lip glosses to protect chapped lips from the environment.

If your skiiing, don't forget sunscreen
Please visit www.drrachelskincare.com for more anti aging information.